Welcome back everybody to part 3 of
the B5N2 Kate project. Not a great deal has been done but it’s a good
opportunity to describe the building and painting of the bomb. As I mentioned last time, I tend to do these
items before I start painting to maintain momentum and motivation.
I also wanted to post this as it’s my
birthday today and seeing it’s a bit of a milestone this time (the big 40) I’ll
be busy with other things all weekend.
On with the bomb, the two halves were
glued together and the seam eliminated.
The rear part had the moulded fins removed and all the gaps filled with
a mix of super glue and talc. This gloop
is a great filler as it can be dried instantly with accelerator, doesn’t shrink
and never goes too hard like neat super glue, it also behaves just like plastic
so is easy to sand and scribe.
The brass parts are sanded with a
gentle sanding sponge to remove the plating and the parts glued together, I
tried to solder the fin supports but they kept breaking off the the attachments
are tiny so they ended up being glued on.
Priming is important when painting parts with different materials as it creates a good key for the paint but guarantees an even finish.
The painting was quite fun. The body was sprayed with Tamiya Sky Grey and
then the white and green nose bands were masked off and sprayed with Tamiya
White and XF-5 Green respectively. There
are no colour call outs in the instructions which was a pain but a quick Google
search revealed the answer.
Next up was the paint chipping,
Vallejo German Camo Black Brown 70822 was applied with a sponge.
Now it was time for the weathering and
a filter of AK Interactive (AKI) was brushed on and allowed to dry, this was
followed by an oil pin wash using Abteilung Shadow Brown. Any excess was removed with a damp brush
soaked in thinner.
The bomb was looking good but we’re
not there yet. Speckling is a good way
to add those tiny little dings, marks and staining. I used 2 different tones, a light grey and a
darker shade, the mix is make up and using a stiff brush the bristles are
flicked at the model. With trial and
error, the correct consistency can be found as different dilutions can make
different types of speckles.
The last thing was to use a graphite
pencil to add the steel effect around the strap.
And here’s the finished bomb after a little bit of pigment to add dirt and ming!
I small amount of work was done to the
airframe. All the filler was rubbed down
and the areas primed, scribed and riveted.
On the actual aircraft, the area underneath the canopy was interior
green so using the all in one closed canopy as a guide, the area was masked off
and sprayed. It will be weathered at the
same time as the airframe, but that will come later.
Next up is the undercarriage but you’ll
have to wait until next week for this.
So until then, take care and have a great modelling weekend.
So why do you sand the plating off the PE J?
ReplyDeleteHi Jen. It helps to key the paint and glue. I find the shiny coating can cause the paint to chip off and the glue bonds to be weaker.
ReplyDeleteCheers,
Jamie
Ah, that figures thought it might be something like that. You realise you've gone way over the top weathering that bomb though! :p
ReplyDeleteI don't think I have Jen. Where's your evidence to say that I have gone way over the top? Because as you'll see in the next installment, there are plenty of examples of bombs that were weathered like this and in fact were even worse!
ReplyDeleteStay tuned!
Dude, I was messing. There's nothing wrong with your bomb :-)
ReplyDeleteJen.
I love it. The more I look at it the better it looks.
ReplyDelete